On Utila Island, the clear leader in hospitality and scuba services is the little over-the-water lodge located down a Victorian street lined with citrus and mango trees and garnished with spicy English accents. Utila Lodge offers the friendliest and most casual of vacation experiences. And with a grand total of eight rooms, you are a name, not a number. All rooms are air-conditioned and have private baths and over-water balconies or porches. The main clubhouse with restaurant and bar is built over Utila Harbor and boasts great breezes and extraordinary harbor views. (Check out the webcam on the website.) There is a PADI Five-Star dive shop, on-site hyperbaric facility, nitrox mix, complete instruction, equipment repair and rental, classroom and, of course, a friendly professional staff offering complete scuba services. Guests also enjoy generous, delicious meals served family-style.

Because this is the host of Honduras' Whale Shark and Oceanic Research Center, guests often participate in educational lectures and whale-shark conservation programs. Whale sharks are present in the waters off Utila year-round, so it is not unusual to suddenly find yourself face to face with "the biggest fish in the sea." Serious aficionados may sign up for scheduled research programs through WSORC.

Dive package includes: air-conditioned accommodations; double occupancy; three full meals daily; three boat dives daily, which include two night boat dives during the week; tanks, weights and belts; kayaks and canoes; welcome cocktail; and airport transfers. Dive group incentive: seven paid, one free; 14 paid, two free.

Think of Utila Lodge as your own little dive resort in the western Caribbean. ACCOMMODATIONS: Eight airconditioned rooms with ocean views, cable TV, oversize hammocks and private balconies

AMENITIES: Full-service dive shop, 41-foot dive boat, nitrox and trimix, whale-shark expeditions, waterfront bar, Internet access, kayak and bike rental, snorkeling, fishing and hiking

CONTACT INFORMATION: Toll-free: 800-282-8932 Website: utilalodge.com; wsorc.com E-mail: [email protected]