For divers who thrive on diversity, few destinations outshine the Sunshine State. Florida’s spectrum of submerged experiences runs the gamut: saltwater and fresh, wrecks and reefs, sharks to seahorses, spelunking through cave systems to volunteering in coral restoration. Occasional visitors like me will never tap Florida’s full potential, and even full-time residents have more than enough in their backyard to keep their gills wet and happy for years on end. Here are some of the adventures I’ve already enjoyed in Florida, and some I need to schedule for next time.

SEASONAL SUPERSTARS

Goliath grouper are a big draw to the South Florida diving meccas of Jupiter and West Palm Beach. A handful of the huge groupers, which can grow to more than six feet long and weigh a quarter of a ton, are year-round denizens on many reefs and wrecks. During the months of August and September, however, goliath numbers increase dramatically when Epinephelus itajara come together to spawn. I’ve seen at least 50 grouper surrounding the Zion shipwreck off Jupiter right before the full moon. The MG-111, just north of the Zion and part of the same celebrated “Wreck Trek” collection of purpose-sunk ships, is another favorite hangout spot for the goliaths. Off Palm Beach, try the Ana Cecilia, and if you’re diving from the Boynton Beach area be sure to visit the Castor shipwreck for another chance to slide up next to these endearing, endangered big fish.

During winter visits to Florida, especially during periods when the temperature plummets overnight, I make a point to drive west to the Crystal River area to snorkel with manatees. “Smiling potatoes with flippers” is how I would describe these charismatic marine mammals to the uninitiated. Even larger than the goliaths, these gentle giants gather together to warm up in the 72-degree spring-fed waterways of Crystal River and Homosassa River. Numerous tour companies can take you out, or you can rent a kayak and pilot yourself. Target the early morning to beat the crowds. Be sure to follow the rules regarding in-water encounters and respect any temporary site closures that may be in place.

DRIVE AND DIVE THE FLORIDA KEYS

Trunk filled and bursting with wet scuba kit and clinking tanks, my humble Toyota Corolla rental sedan is transformed into a proper safari vehicle ready to roll down the legendary Overseas Highway through the Florida Keys. Countless members of our dive tribe have preceded me on this sacred pilgrimage to soak up sun and scuba culture and explore dozens of shipwrecks and reefs. Some of my personal favorites are the wrecks of the colorful, current-swept Duane and the impressively massive Spiegel Grove, and the fun, shallow reefs off Key Largo such as Molasses Reef. (And then there are the dive bars, such as No Name Pub on Big Pine Key.) Even though the hard coral coverage along much of Florida’s famous archipelago is not what it used to be, swaying sea fans and healthy schools of grunts and snappers—along with angelfish, porkfish, barracuda, and other tropical fish and invertebrate species—still thrive on many Keys’ reefs.

The Coral Restoration Foundation (CRF) is helping to build a better future for the corals and associated reef residents. Diving in their coral tree nurseries and then assisting the CRF team “outplant” sprigs of staghorn corals raised to repopulate nearby reefs is one of the coolest things I’ve done underwater, a citizen science opportunity not to be missed. Contact CRF to get involved in their programs partnering with local dive charter operators. There’s even a PADI Coral Restoration specialty certification.

SHORE DIVING, DRIFT DIVING, AND SHARK DIVING

West Palm Beach is often my base of operations while on safari, as it is close to such a wide variety of scuba experiences. Voted one of the top shore dives in America, The Blue Heron Bridge is a treasure trove for macro marine life such as octopus, shameface crabs, grumpy faced batfish, and jawfish. Plus, countless other cool critters including fringehead blennies, arrow crabs, juvenile angelfish and baby drums, even the odd seahorse and frogfish. Entering the water one hour before high tide allows a long, mellow dive in only 2-20 feet of water while the visibility is good.

One of the area’s most popular boat dives is Breakers Reef, a reef system that runs for miles north to south, parallel to shore in 45 to 65 feet. Since current is often present, this is usually conducted as a drift dive. Go with the flow to enjoy the abundant marine life streaming over the reef, tucked under ledges, and hiding in the nooks and crannies. Breakers is visited by roving spadefish and jacks, and is home to parrotfish, moray eels, lobster, and sea turtles. Stingrays, a Caribbean reef shark or two, and nurse sharks can also be found here.

For serious elasmobranch action, I drive 20 miles north to Jupiter. Specialized two and three- tank charters steam three-plus miles offshore to where the sharks are thickest. Barrel-chested bulls, snaggle-toothed lemons, and apex-awesome tigers are the mainstays and often come very close, presenting you with excellent photo opportunities. Silkies, sandbars, and even a great hammerhead may crash the party. Some dive operators bait to attract the sharks, others do not. Some dives are mid-water drifts while others are hunkered down on the bottom 75 to 100 feet deep. There are even shark trips for freedivers.

BLACKWATER — MEETING THE MICRO-ALIENS AFTER SUNDOWN

The sealife safari need not end at dinner time. The “blackwater” phenomenon that has taken the diving world by storm, captivating a quickly growing cadre of committed macro photographers, can be experienced right here in Florida. West Palm Beach joins a handful of global locales showcasing planktonica fantastica— that is, the weird and wonderful larval fish and invertebrates found in open water at night, adrift in the Gulf Stream in a living soup of tiny organisms. What can the intrepid diver encounter 30 feet under the surface, hovering 700 feet over the sea floor? For starters, there are baby lionfish, miniature billfish, pelagic nudibranchs, sea angels, sea butterflies, lobsters looking like sci-fi monsters, countless jellies and their transparent kin. Plus, pelagic seahorses, deep-dwelling ribbonfish, rare and remarkable squids and octopuses and even paper nautilus. So many of the mysterious life forms in this inner space, miles offshore bugger all description! Photographically speaking, blackwater can be a challenge until you get the hang of it, but the excitement of finding a bony-eared assfish (no joke) or snaketooth swallower or cusk eel with its everted stomach makes it all worthwhile.

THE SAFARI CONTINUES

The more I explore Florida, the more it becomes apparent I have only scratched the surface of what this homegrown iconic dive destination has to offer. There is so much more to see. Next time— and I’m quite certain there will be multiple next times—I must search for the elusive, prehistoric sawfish. And glide down the gin-clear Rainbow River. I must delve into world-famous Ginnie Springs and other flooded subterranean haunts in north-central Florida’s “Cave Country”. And venture all the way up to Pensacola in the Panhandle, where the USS Oriskany aircraft carrier, the largest artificial reef in the world at a mindboggling 911 feet in length, awaits my discovery.

Bring it on. I’m more than ready for the next chapter of my safari to unfold in the watery wilds of Florida.