The towering granite cliffs at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula are an impressive sight. But we came to this ancient place called Ras Mohammed to explore the underwater landscape.Propelled by a brisk current through clear water, our group descended into the Red Sea beside a wall covered with a Day-Glo collection of corals. While several shy lionfish hid in crevices, a giant moray eased past us in open water. Pulsing schools of jacks and Napoleon wrasse and an array of smaller tropicals vied for my attention.With so much to see at one of the world?s premier dive sites, sensory overload was setting in when the strangeness started. Swept by the current over a sandy plateau, I looked down and saw a blue-spotted stingray gliding above a field of toilets. Not just one or two narcosis-induced toilets, but dozens of white porcelain thrones that had spilled out of a Cypriot freighter when it ran aground in 1980. Most of the ship?s wreckage ? with the obvious exception of the toilets ? was pushed over the wall and out of sight by a subsequent storm.The dive?s odd mixture of stunning marinelife and sunken bathroom fixtures symbolized my experience as a first-time visitor in Egypt. For every memorable moment spent gazing at the pyramids of Giza or diving in the Red Sea, our travels were filled with equally unforgettable, albeit bewildering, sights and sounds of the Middle East.Cairo: Satellite dishes and pyramidsThe 12-hour flight from New York to Cairo on a roomy Egypt Air 767 wasn?t nearly as uncomfortable as I had feared. While I expected Cairo to be crowded and bustling, nothing could prepare me for the chaotic traffic that hurtles hell-bent amid mule-drawn vegetable carts and brave pedestrians. The scores of satellite TV dishes perched on every rooftop ? from dilapidated tenements to luxury hotels ? also came as a surprise. In addition, I was astonished by the hauntingly melodic music broadcast over loudspeakers from ornate mosques that summons the city?s 17 million Muslims to prayer throughout the day. The Egyptians that we encountered were gracious and eager to meet Americans. A college student named Sammy befriended me and my wife on our first night in Cairo by helping us cross a busy street and then taking us to a local diner.While my wife browsed at his uncle?s shop, the Green Star Bazaar, Sammy and I played a good-natured game of chess after dinner. Sammy turned out to be a polished pro ? he was on the verge of winning when he allowed me to take advantage of several weak moves. I ended up buying the board, as well as a boatload of papyrus and perfume that my wife had picked out from the shop.The Pyramids of Giza were bigger and even more awe-inspiring than I imagined, but the Sphinx was smaller than expected. And I certainly wasn?t ready for the annoying peddlers who harass tourists at the pyramids with unwanted trinkets.It was nice to see the Nile, but I would never swim in it. And I sure wouldn?t venture out on my own into the forbidding expanse of desert and mountains between Cairo and the Red Sea dive destinations of Sharm El-Sheikh and Hurghada.Red Sea divingAfter four days of travel and sightseeing, our arrival in Sharm El-Sheikh marked my long-awaited introduction to diving in the Red Sea.Stretching for more than 1,000 miles and boasting 200 different types of coral and hundreds of species of fish, the Red Sea is essentially Europe?s Caribbean. And Sharm El-Sheikh is the region?s Grand Cayman, though it actually resembles a 1960s oceanfront version of Las Vegas. During the peak season in October and November, more than 200 boats will carry as many as 7,000 divers to nearby reefs each day. Watching dozens of dive boats maneuvering into slips at the local marina each afternoon was reminiscent of Cairo?s never-ending rush hour.The water clarity on every dive in Sharm El-Sheikh and Hurghada was superb, and the vast abundance of marine life included rare variations of angels, parrotfish and other tropicals. Water temperatures, which were in the high 70s in late May, climb well into the 80s during the summer and fall.Safety is a paramount concern of Emperor Divers, an operation with full-service shops and PADI-certified scuba schools in Sharm El-Sheikh and Hurghada that hosted our group. The seasoned dive masters adamantly enforced rules that prohibit diving below 100 feet in the Red Sea.Most of the dive boats I saw were huge by Caribbean standards. Our group of a dozen divers spent two days on a 110-foot live-aboard that wasn?t among the larger vessels in the marina. We also were delighted with the outstanding meals served on these boats. Lunches consisted of cooked pasta, seafood, chicken and salads.Thanks to a favorable exchange rate, affordable accommodations are available in both Sharm El-Sheikh and Hurghada. One gleaming example is the newly opened Howard Johnson Plaza Resort in Sharm El-Sheik, which compares favorably to any of the finest dive destination hotels. The sprawling 360-room resort features a giant pool, private beach, two restaurants, a health club, shopping mall and ostrich farm, plus a couple of ponies.The Touring ChoiceWhile my wife and I usually prefer to travel independently and would never dream of setting foot on a cruise ship, we were relieved to be part of a group of dive travel professionals and instructors for our first foray to Egypt and the Red Sea. The eight-day trip was hosted by Bon Voyage Tours, which specializes in Egyptian travel. Every aspect of our tour, from transportation and guides to accommodations and meals, was handled efficiently and professionally.The true value of our tour guides became apparent at a hotel in Hurghada. As my wife was suffering a mild allergic reaction from accidentally eating seafood, a language barrier prevented me from communicating with the restaurant?s non-English speaking staff until one of our guides interceded. Although it wasn?t serious, the incident illustrated how difficult it could be for non-Egyptian-speaking tourists to request medical assistance or any other kind of help on their own.Perhaps the most pleasant surprise of our tour was how much we enjoyed sharing new experiences in an exotic place with strangers who soon became friends. Sometimes it?s good to be part of a group.Diving the Red SeaBon Voyage Tours has winter specials on Red Sea dive packages that include round-trip air from Los Angeles or New York, three-star accommodations with daily breakfasts and dinners and five days of two-tank dives. Prices range from $1,599 to $1,799. For more, call 888-322-3883.PADI Travel NetworkPhone: 800-729-7234, ext. 2Web: www.padi.com/ptnTropical AdventuresPhone: 800-723-2679Web: www.divetropical.comThe Aggressor fleet offers Red Sea live-aboard trips on it?s Excel yacht.Aggressor FleetPhone: 877-348-2628Web: www.agressor.comUltimate Dive TravelPhone: 800-737-3483Web: www.ultimatedivetravel.comIsland Dreams Tours and TravelPhone: 800-346-6116Web: www.islandream.com/island