The sheer wall of volcanic rock at the dive site Vertical Awareness appears endless. As I fin closer to the wall, the abundance of gray reef sharks becomes more apparent, but it’s what I see in the distance that intrigues me.

On a rock platform jutting out from the wall, one of the resident Hawaiian monk seals casually poses for a photo, as picture-perfect as you’d imagine, swaying gently back and forth in the current but otherwise still and curious about the divers approaching. This would not be my last encounter with this endangered animal in the waters off Niihau.

The islands of Niihau and nearby Lehua Rock are off-limits to visitors, but the surrounding waters welcome divers in search of a thrill. The two-hour boat ride from Poipu, Kauai, to Niihau should not discourage the adventurous diver. Between the pods of wild dolphins and serene sunrise, not much could steal away my attention on our way to the Forbidden Island. But my dive guide, Derek Budde, was eager to introduce me to resident monk seal Oscar by showing me his photo right before I took a giant stride into the deep blue. A picture just isn’t enough. I’m looking for a more personal introduction in this crystal-clear Hawaiian water.

Sure enough, during the second dive, more monk seals pay us a visit, but Oscar is nowhere to be found. We spot a rather worn area of rock, and Budde points and pretends to nap, signaling Oscar’s usual resting place. A spotted moray peeks out from a crevice, and a quick movement out of the corner of my eye alerts me to the sight of an octopus camouflaging itself between two rocks. Then, out of nowhere, I hear a strange but loud whooping noise — above, a Hawaiian monk seal races toward the wall.

I’d been warned during the briefing on the boat that divers occasionally witness a smack-down worthy of the WWE between male monk seals defending their territory in this area.

On this day, the seals take their brawl elsewhere but treat us to a very entertaining chase. In between dives, a quick snorkel leads to a wild dolphin encounter, and we go on one last dive exploring the underwater arches and dramatic caves of Puu Muu. I missed my shot at meeting Oscar this time but was plenty happy blowing bubbles with his playful cousins.

TOP DIVE SITES

1) Sheraton Caverns
Lava tubes and a plethora of marine critters make this the must-dive site when in Kauai. You can count on getting your sea turtle fix here too.

2) Koloa Landing
You’ll almost always find a green sea turtle hanging out at Kauai’s only public shore dive. What makes this spot extra special is its close proximity to nearby Seasport Divers if you are in need of rental gear or a map of the site.

3) Vertical Awareness
Monk seals, gray reef sharks and a journey to a forbidden island? If you’re visiting Kauai from May to October, a trip to Niihau is a must.

TRAVEL TIPS

GETTING THERE: Just a 40-minute flight from Honolulu gets you to the lush Garden Isle of Kauai.

STAYING THERE: Stay at a spacious oceanview condo at Whaler’s Cove. These rooms are huge and fully-equipped with everything you need, from cooking supplies to cable and internet and plenty of outlets if you are traveling with underwater camera equipment. The Whaler’s Cove staff can plan all your topside activities and this is hands-down the best place to catch a sunset on Kauai. Within walking distance of the property is Koloa Landing, one of the best shore dives on Kauai and Whaler's Cove is less than a 5-minute drive from Seasport Divers and local restaurants and shopping —Whaler's Cove is ideal for both diving and sightseeing.

DIVING THERE: Seasport Divers will show you the best sites Kauai has to offer, and from May to October the Seasport Staff can get you to Niihau for that up-close encounter with Oscar the monk seal.

TOP-SIDE FUN

Jack Harter Helicopter Tour
Zoom through Waimea Canyon on a doors-off helicopter ride above the Na Pali coast.

The Fresh Shave Truck
Locally sourced ingredients and fresh fruit make ever-popular Hawaiian shaved ice the perfect post-dive snack. The Fresh Shave truck adds a unique take on the ever-popular snack and often moves around the island to different locations in their mini airstream inspired food truck. Make sure to check their Facebook page for up to date location and hours and it never hurts to stop by early in the day— their flavors are so good, they often sell out!

Zip-Line Tour
Zip through the greenery against a mountainous backdrop. Princeville Ranch is situated at a relatively low elevation point and offers a few options.

Smith’s Family Garden Luau Enjoy a stroll through 30 acres of tropical gardens before taking your seat at the nightly luau that features live music and kalua pig.