With so many dives in Southern California to choose from, I’ve sometimes wondered how it would be possible to pick a favorite. But not long into my first dive at Santa Barbara Island, I know I’ve got a ringer. As is typical for the southern Channel Islands, the visibility is spectacular; I can clearly see the dive boat 70 feet above me. The rocky arch in front of me is overgrown with sponges, bryozoans and anemones. In one glance, I spot three species of nudibranchs busily feasting on the crusty substrate — and I’m a sucker for nudis. The kelp — lush and golden — is the perfect backdrop.

It’s not the visibility, the invertebrate life or even the kelp that catapults this site to the top of my list though. It’s the trio of young sea lions that gloms onto me from the moment I enter the water. One sea lion is clearly the gang’s leader. He speeds over and skids to a stop in front of me, his two fuzzy sidekicks eagerly flanking him. He presses his face toward my camera and barks and then leans back, his nose thrusted snootily upward so he can release a burst of bubbles. Satisfied with this show of might, the threesome looks at me expectantly, awaiting my reply. My response (taking as many photos as possible) is clearly unsatisfactory, prompting them to take another tack. They swim slowly into the kelp, glancing back at me. I, of course, follow them, Pied Piper in reverse. The three accelerate — darting through the forest, barks punctuating every zig and zag — and occasionally circle back my way to chew my strobe, pull my fin, or blow bubbles at me.

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My reaction must be too little, too late. Within minutes, the trio has zoomed out of sight. Before I can miss them, however, I am surrounded by a different type of bedlam: a shiny, swirling school of jack mackerel streaming between the kelp stalks. When the school tapers off, the mystery of the sea lions’ whereabouts is solved; they are busily herding the fish, their hungry yips echoing in the water column. I watch the chaos pass and then turn back toward the boat, straining to hear the sea lions long after they have disappeared deep into the forest.

DIVE SITES

1) Sutil Pass
A meandering, gorgonian-studded reef gives way to an ethereal kelp forest on the southern and eastern sides of Sutil Island. Keep your eyes peeled for shy harbor seals (lucky divers may encounter a playful pup) and angel sharks.

2) The Rookery
The epicenter of sea lion action, this shallow site consists of a misty kelp forest, a rubbly sand bottom and hundreds of unruly pinnipeds that will demand your nonstop attention from the moment you enter the water until the time you exit.

3) The Arch
A 30-foot-wide sponge- and corynactis- encrusted archway dominates this shallow site, but don’t forget to check out the adjacent drop-off. Bat rays and Pacific electric rays patrol this area, and it’s one of the best places in Southern California to view purple hydrocoral.

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WHAT TO DO

Kayaking The coastline of the island, with grottoes and a large arch, provides amazing scenery. On calm days, circumnavigation of the 1-square-mile island is possible for experienced kayakers.

Hiking The island is home to nesting seabirds, several colonies of pinnipeds and spectacular wildflowers in spring. A hiking trail leading to the sea cliffs is accessible at the Landing Cove dock.

Whale- and dolphin-watching Blue, gray and humpback whales can be viewed during their northern and southern migrations, as can large pods of Pacific white-sided, common and Risso’s dolphins.

TRIP TIPS

When to go Water temperatures at Santa Barbara Island range from the mid-50s in early spring to mid-60s in early fall. Visibility is often good to excellent (40 feet to more than 100 feet). A 7mm wetsuit with hood and gloves in recommended year-round.

Getting there Boats depart for the six-hour trip at night and arrive the next morning. Trips can be arranged through local operators. truthaquatics.com | peaceboat.com | horizoncharters.com