While most of the travel events we offer through our travel company have to do with the underwater world, there is one very special terrestrial adventure that we've found introduces the same sort of reverence for nature that drives us beneath the sea--the African Wildlife Safari. In this case we've traded our dive boat for a Land Rover, and swapped our underwater housings for long telephoto lenses. Yet, there is much the same thrill in finding a cheetah on the prowl as there is in a close encounter with a friendly pod of dolphins. The main difference is that in this environment you can change film without flooding your camera!

To that end, we traveled to Botswana to experience safari at two different camps, both run by the Wilderness Safaris (www.wilderness-safaris.com). And then to satisfy our marine imperative, we headed south to Gansbaai in South Africa for a thrilling great white shark adventure, presented by Marine Dynamics (www.dive.co.za). Ours was a group of 15, mostly extreme photo enthusiasts, and a few of our children as well. A brief summary of our daily adventures follows, and for those who may wish to contemplate a similar expedition, trip preparation information as well.

July 6

Travel from US to Johannesburg, South Africa. This is about a 14-hour flight from gateway airports of Atlanta or New York. Johannesburg is of course a cosmopolitan city, with an excellent airport. We were met by the Wilderness Safaris staff and transported to the Grace Hotel in Rosebank for our overnight. Some trips can connect directly to Maun (Botswana) without an overnight, but a recent change in the South African Airways schedule brought what was actually a welcome respite in a beautiful hotel. We were reminded however how weak the US dollar is abroad with something as simple as a taxi ride. Now it is about 7 Rand to the dollar, and last time we were here (year 2000) we got 14 Rand to the dollar. All things then appeared less dear with the advantageous exchange.

A note on Botswana safari - While countries like Tanzania and Kenya have opted for a more "mass-market" approach, Botswana is purposely targeted to small groups at upscale camps. Safari purveyors like Abercrombie and Kent and Wilderness Safaris run extraordinary tented safari camps where discriminating clients can experience wonderful wildlife encounters while luxuriating is spacious tented suites with complete amenities. Botswana is consequently typically more expensive than some other places one could go for safari in Africa, but they have an amazing "bush" product in terms of wildlife, and the level of service is truly incredible. It might cost a bit more, but in my experience Botswana is the best place one can go in Africa for safari.

Recognizing the baggage restrictions in the small planes going to the Botswana bush are very tight (26 pounds per person they say), we broke our gear into two clusters, one for safari and one for sharks, and anything not needed on safari was stored at the hotel to be transported to the airport by Wilderness Safaris for our transfer to South Africa for the white shark module. As it was, we bought two extra seats on the airplanes in Botswana just make sure our gear would accompany us, and as a result had no problem being a few pounds over the limit.

July 7

Travel to Johannesburg and then off to Maun and another regional airport before ultimately arriving at the private airstrip at Kings Pool just in time for afternoon tea and a game drive. Usually I'm pretty good about keeping a daily journal on location, but found this whole vacation was so intense in terms of things to do and critters to photograph from morning until night, I relied on Alexa, my 10-year old daughter, to keep a journal of our daily wildlife sightings on safari. (Alexa's journal entries appear in italics.)

From Alexa's Journal - The first camp we went to was Kings Pool. On the way there we saw elephant, giraffe, zebra, impala, and red lechewe. Then we went out in the afternoon and night and we saw elephant, giraffe, impala, lizards, hippos, monkeys, kudu, zebra, and baboons.

Not bad when you consider this was just the ride from the airstrip to the camp!

After our check-in and afternoon tea we went out on a proper safari drive, complete with bountiful photo opportunities and a "sundowner" (drinks and tea at sunset) overlooking a hippo pool. While this might have been a "travel" day, thanks to the organizational skills of the Kings Pool camp, it was also a productive day of game viewing and photography. We quickly became aware that there are LOTS of elephants in the region. An image of a herd of elephants, including babies, drinking from the water's edge in the late afternoon light was one of my favorite shots of the day, but the sheer abundance of life was inspirational.

Kings Pool Overview - "The Kings Pool Camp is on the western boundary of Chobe National Park at the source of the Savuti Channel. The camp overlooks Kings Pool Lagoon and hosts a huge elephant population, as well as major predators such as lion, leopard, cheetah, and hyena. Accommodations are in 10 newly renovated twin-bed tented rooms overlooking a hippo lagoon. Bathrooms have shower, hand-basin, and toilet, as well as outdoor shower. The main lodge provides the pub and dining facility, as well as a swimming pool. Open 4x4 Land Rovers are the preferred safari vehicle, and water levels permitting, boat safaris are offered as well." Those are the words from the online promotion for the camp, but for once the hyperbole is understated. These tented camps are lush and architecturally inspiring. Designed to assure a sense of wilderness immersion combined with privilege, the camp and its operators were most professional in every regard.

July 8 - Kings Pool

The safari vehicles are made by Land Rover specifically for this application. They have three tiers of bench seat, with hand rails perfect for mounting long lenses on beanbags to steady them. The drivers not only know where to find the game, but how best to approach for optimal light and camera angles. Clearly they have been around very good photographers before, and our guides quickly became our allies in our photographic quest. In fact they were so good; we should probably share our photo credits with them! The giraffe and Cape buffalo sightings were both good this morning, and we had some very close opportunities with wart hogs as well. Very strange animals they are, especially when observed from a vantage this near.

July 9 - Kings Pool

On any safari, the cats are the big draws, and this day was exceptional for us in this regard. In the morning we found a group of lionesses in beautiful warm light, slowly meandering through the high grasses, their tawny coats in perfect camouflage. But the hot shot this day was a leopard we tracked offroad through the bush for about an hour, getting only glimpses and grab shots. And then at the very end of the day, in the last golden rays of the setting sun, she sat on a high wooded ridge and posed in absolute regal indifference to our presence. This was the first year I was taking both film and digital pictures of the Africa experience, and to see those leopard shots pop up on the camera's LCD screen was both exciting and reassuring. For sure significant images were happening for me and our guests.

One of the interesting aspects of the Kings Pool camp is a hide built into an earth bunker at the edge of a spring. At mid-day the zebra, elephants, wart hogs, and impala come to the spring to drink, and the hide provides incredibly close access and unusual camera angles. In fact, more than once we were sprayed by a trunkful of water from a playful elephant, but we were smart enough to shield our cameras. How embarrassing would that be for an underwater photographer to have his expensive digital SLR flooded by elephant snot!

For our morning game drive, the highlight seemed to be a trio of male lions in somnambulant stupor. Just as we figured we'd have to be satisfied with still-life headshots, hopefully with eyes open, Africa reminded us she holds surprises. One cat slipped off into the bush, and when we followed he boldly charged our safari vehicle, starling us all and reminding us once again this is their turf and they rule quite well thank you.

July 10 - Mombo

The antelopes of the plains, like kudu, red lechewe, and impala are everywhere--kind of like blue-striped grunts in Key Largo or clownfish in Papua New Guinea. But they are so cute you can't help but photograph them. My daughter made the observation that the impalas had an "M" shaped mark on their butts, resembling McDonald's golden arches. And given their popularity as prey, maybe fast-food-of-the-bush is a fair analogy.

Like Kings Pool, Mombo is extraordinarily organized and service oriented, so our check-in was quick and efficient, allowing time for tea and afternoon game drive. They knew where to find the den of a leopard that recently had a cub, and luckily both Mom and baby were in residence that afternoon. A series of the mother and cub pictures, followed by a wonderful viewing opportunity of the rhinos recently reintroduced to this preserve, made for a very productive introduction to Mombo.

Mombo Overview - The Mombo camp has 9 tented rooms, each raised off the ground and offering wonderful views of the floodplain. Don't be fooled by the "tent" appellation, as these are luxury accommodations with en suite bathroom with indoor shower (also outdoor shower). The main living area is under thatch and canvas and there is a swimming pool. Raised walkways link the bedrooms and living area. There is a boma as well (outdoor dining area under the stars). The suites are spacious, and cleverly designed to incorporate enough structural elements to protect the guests from elements and wildlife, but enough screening and canvas to make sure we felt a part of the environment. On cool nights a hot-water bottle beneath the covers provided comfort, and in fact it was so cozy those 6:00 AM wake-up calls came far too early. But these camps are all about the game drives and good light, and to sleep in would never do.

July 11 - Mombo

Indeed the monkeys around the camp we cute, but that was before they figured out how to get in one of the guest rooms and steal most of the prescription drugs. It seems they are most fond of Malarone anti-malarial medicine, and left their teeth marks on the few bottles they couldn't quite figure their way past the child-proof caps. All of a sudden we viewed their "cute-quotient" in a different light.

No doubt it is a constant battle for the Mombo staff to stay one step ahead of these critters in such a wilderness setting. Seeing hyena, buffalo, and other assorted game just steps away beyond our elevated walkway was exciting, but one more reminder we are vulnerable interlopers in their realm. We left it to the camp staff to make sure we were safely escorted back to our tents at night.

Cats were a major hit for this morning's game drive. First there were the two cheetahs, and then a massive congregate of lions. I had my eye to the viewfinder all the time and didn't stop to count, but when my wife Barbara did the math we had 14 lions all together at one point. In fact, the lions and cheetahs were both so productive in the morning they were our target species for the afternoon game drive. But wildlife is fickle, and while there were fascinating behavioral options in the morning, in the afternoon we had a great chance to watch them, well, sleep. Maybe that yawn shot with all those big teeth will somehow look fiercely menacing on film. Or maybe it will just look like a very sleepy cat. Either way, it was fun to see.

July 12 - Mombo

For our last afternoon game drive we decided to try the leopard and her cub one more time. The first time we were there the light was harsh and the interaction between them fleeting. Recognizing this as a very rare opportunity, we went back hoping for better shots.

At first the leopards were in the shade. Behind a fallen tree and the light was marginal, but then, as if on cue, as the sun set the leopards climbed to the sunny side of the tree and the little cub curled up next to Mommy's neck. It was a beautiful photo of course, but even more so a beautiful experience for all of us that night. You never know what might go through a kid's mind, or what will endure through the haze of time. But Barbara and I hope that last glimpse of the baby leopard in her Mom's protective embrace in the vast African wilderness will be one such memory for our daughter to carry home from this trip.

All of which made it more difficult to bid our new friends at Mombo goodbye, but we were now poised for a new adventure and white sharks beckoned.

A Note on Wilderness Safaris - I have been on numerous safaris in several African nations, but have to say the organization and dedication to guest satisfaction exhibited by the Wilderness Safaris group was the best I've yet encountered. From the airport transfers to the accommodations in the bush to the game drives, this company does hospitality extremely well. When traveling to remote locales to experience the unfamiliar, it was a comfort to have booked with true safari professionals.

July 13 - Travel

This was a very long day. It may be a moderate distance as the crow flies between Mombo safari camp and Gansbaai, South Africa, assuming a fast crow with good endurance. But for us to get there we had to connect through several regional airports (including a scenic fly-over of Zambia's Victoria Falls) to Capetown, and then an 1-hour drive from Capetown airport to Grootbos. All told, it took about 14 hours in transit.

The South Africa Safari/Shark Season

As it turns out, the best time for both safari and white shark encounters happens to be during the North American summer, which is actually winter in South Africa. One consideration is that in winter there are far fewer mosquitoes, significant anywhere in the malaria belt. However, bug spray and malaria preventatives can combat the insect issue. The main reason winter is best is because it is normally a time of relative drought. Water becomes scarce and all game migrates towards the remaining streams and watering holes. This concentrates both prey and predators into a much smaller area. There is less vegetation as well, making the game far easier to spot and photograph.

As far white sharks are concerned, the water may actually be calmer during their summer, but the plankton bloom makes the water clarity extremely challenging. The best water for underwater photography happens between the end of May and the end of August, with June and July absolutely primetime.

The white sharking in South Africa happens near Gansbaai, a small fishing village on the western side of Cape Agulhas, near the southernmost tip of the continent. Once in Capetown, our white shark operator JP Botha of Marine Dynamics met us at the airport to continue our journey Grootbos (www.grootbos.com), the upscale resort and nature reserve that would be our home over the next 6 days.

Grootbos - Many of the white shark expeditioneers who make the pilgrimage to Gansbaai each season choose to stay in a variety of bed and breakfast accommodations. Some are austere, and some are quite nice. Given that we had tour participants who would not be white sharking every day, we chose to stay at a Grootbos Nature Reserve; a lovely lodge situated in a beautifully wooded milkwood forest overlooking the sea. This 5-star lodge allows for maximum comfort, gracious hospitality, and ample leisure activities for days we can't go out on the boat for white sharks. Grootbos Factoids:

• Grootbos means "large forest" in Afrikaans, and is named after the white milkwoods, which form an extensive forest on the reserve.

• There are 9 private luxury cottages, each with private lounge, bedroom(s), and en suite bathroom. All cottages have private wooden decks with panoramic sea and mountain views, fireplace and wall heaters, hair dryer, filter coffee machine and selection of quality teas, well stocked mini-bar, and fresh fruit basket daily.

• There is a restaurant with central fireplace and full bar with excellent selection of South African wines.

• There is a horse stable on location, and wonderful trail rides throughout the property.

• There is a swimming pool within natural rock features and indigenous plants.

• The lounge overlooks Walker Bay and has Leica spotter scopes for watching birds and whales from the Lodge.

• The guiding team at Grootbos includes a botanist, ornithologist, environmental scientist, archaeologist, and a marine biologist.

• 500 species of plant and 100 species of bird occupy Grootbos reserve.

• Activities include 4x4 nature drives through the spectacular scenery, nature walks through the milkwood forest, 1-2 hour horseback rides (18 horses + 2 riding instructors), whale watching trips to Walker Bay, 4x4 beach excursions, and trips to Dangerpoint lighthouse.

As you may surmise, by staying at Grootbos we could be well entertained on days when the seas are too rough to go shark diving, although clearly, encounters with great white sharks was our prime objective for this trip module.

July 14 - Gansbaai

We arrive at full moon and the extreme low tides mean we can't get out of the harbor until 11:00 AM, but since we all need the morning to switch our minds and camera systems from safari mode to white sharks, no worries. Of course, from previous experience I figured I would have plenty of time on location to assemble cameras in housings as well while waiting for the white sharks to show. But, as we took over an existing chumline from a boat who was leaving just as we arrived, within 10 minutes of the hook being dropped we heard the soon-to-be-familiar cry of "Shark at the bait!" Topside cameras furiously clicked as the 4-meter white shark aggressively ripped into a tuna head and we were all deluded into thinking how easy it must be to get white sharks into camera range. In fact, the action was so hot this day, as I was photographing one rather aggressive white shark at the bait, another came perilously close to taking that oh-so-dangerous exploratory nip of my foot as I perched on the outboard for water-level shots. Here already was the extremely rare happenstance of having two sharks at the boat, both extraordinary performers.

Of course, it had not been so previously in my experience at Dyer Island, and for sure I'd never known it to be easy in Australia either. But terrific white shark action so soon in the trip had to be a potent of good things. Right? Well, sort of.

This day we probably had about 6 different sharks around the bait at different times, and the seas were quite calm as well. I know we all got some pretty good shots, but had the whole experience been repeated a couple of days later when we were better into the rhythm of white shark shooting we would have undoubtedly returned with better images.

As it was, no one was really ready to get into the shark cage and we were content with shots of sharks biting the bait. Nice, but after reviewing the digital images in the lodge that night I think we all decided that the iconic shot we were seeking was the great white with jaws agape, teeth gleaming, water streaming through the open maw, and no bait in the picture. That would be the hot shot. But at least we got images, and knew what we had to do in order to do better the next day.

July 15 - Gansbaai

Last time I visited Gansbaai I was so intrigued with the topside photo potential, and also so disappointed with the water clarity, I never even tried any underwater shots. This time in-water shots were a high priority and to that end I armed myself with three specific tools: a Seacam housed Nikon D1X digital system with a 12-24mm zoom, an F100 film camera set up in a Seacam housing with a 14mm wide angle and swivel-45 degree viewfinder (in case I ever had an opportunity to try over/under shots with the white sharks), and a Nikonos RS with a 13mm fisheye lens and remote shutter release so I could use it as a pole cam.

Gratefully this day I had a few magic passes while in the cage with a cooperative shark that allowed both film and digital wide-angle coverage. We were working with famed shark wrangler Andre Hartman, subject of many documentaries and Shark Week renown. Through long years of experience, and instinctual empathy with the sharks Andre knew just how to lure the shark into camera range, yet pull the bait away at the exactly perfect moment.

When all the elements were perfectly aligned I could get a shark close (anything farther than 3 feet away simply would not work in this turbid water), mouth open, and no bait in the frame. Seeing a few of those pop up on the cameras LCD was a great comfort, for now I knew I had something significant recorded. And here it was only a day-and-a-half into the trip. Very cool indeed!

My next series of photos were with the housed film camera, sitting on the side of the cage as the shark ripped into a tuna head not more than three feet away. I have to admit the adrenaline was pumping pretty well as the motor drive raced and the frenzied shark shredded the bait. As the action peaked and the shark slid back in the water I realized the last few shots looked kind of blurry. Then I looked at my dome and saw it smeared in tuna blood and shreds of meat from our rather messy predator. And then I wiped my face and found I too was splashed with blood and detritus. Being close enough to a feeding great white shark to need to rinse fish blood and flesh off my face was the reason I'd come to South Africa, and Andre and the crew of Predator II had delivered!

While we had more action on and off all afternoon, but nothing ever compared to that one magic hour that morning. Actually we probably had 10 different sharks visit the boat over the course of the day, but we are looking for "players", the sharks who want to hit the bait with some level of attitude, or at the other extreme, come close to the back of the boat so Andre can lift the snout in a behavior they call "jawing". This is the specialty photo-op of the South Africa white shark experience, and it takes a coincidence of cooperative shark, good shark wrangling, and perfect surface conditions to make it happen. As it turned out, the confluence of those variables would pretty well elude as the week went on.

July 16 - Gansbaai

After two great days of white sharking our luck turned pretty bad. Here was a slick calm day, good visibility, and we had sharks willing to come to our boat, but none who wanted to play with us. We had cooperative sharks on boats to the left of us; we had sharks on boats to the right of us. But for us, nothing of consequence. The sharks actually seemed offended by the bait we offered this day, and I guess with so many boats in proximity they could afford to be choosy. It appeared none of the tuna on board with us this day was fresh enough to have splattered blood and guts over my dome, and I truly think that is what cost us some extraordinary photo potential.

They use tuna livers in a chum-bag to set the scent, and a decoy in the shape of a sea lion is used to bring the shark close to the bait, but the final element in the "lure triumvirate" is the perfect bait to close the deal. Typically it is shark meat for jawing shots or tuna for ripping shots. But it ought to be fresh and tasty. No one ever said white sharks were dumb, and in fact they are very discriminating predators. I just wish we would have had something more palatable for them this gorgeous day.

Of course that's just my theory, and I could be wrong. It could be the size of the boat, or the color, or wearing the wrong lucky hat. But when the boat 20 yards away has a shark for 2 hours straight and we have none, something needs blaming, and for us this day, we reckon it's the bait.

July 17 - Gansbaai

As if in confirmation of our theory, today we set out to sea with fresh and bloody tuna and shark for bait. And in fact we had great shark action. We think we had 6 different sharks this day, although we probably had more aggressive sharks and more productive players the first two days. But still, all day long there were "Sharks at the bait", "Sharks at the Decoy", and definitely never a dull moment.

The crew advised us the wind would be coming up late in the day, and in fact it did to the extent that white sharking was uncomfortable and marginally productive from mid-afternoon onward. The sharks seem to prefer sunny days and only a slight wind chop. Sometimes slick calm can put them off because they can see the topside activity too well. Overcast doesn't usually work, and big waves probably aren't good because the waves slapping against the boat make too much noise lure a shark close.

There are dozens of variables, including the mood of any particular shark, all of which conspire against getting the ultimate white shark shot. Regrettably, the variables now began to turn against us, and would stay so for the duration of this trip.

July 18

True to forecast, the wind does howl and it is probably too rough to have a good day at sea. So, we take advantage of the lull to go photograph the colony of jackass penguins about an hour away at Stony Point. Then off to the nearby seaside village of Hermanus for lunch at an oceanside restaurant, rather incongruously dining on seafood while overlooking a gorgeous seascape highlighted by a passing Southern right whale. Later that day our kids go horseback riding at Grootbos, some of the adults go shopping in Hermanus, and we white sharkers recharge our batteries, literally and figuratively.

July 19

This is our last scheduled day of white shark charter, and even though we know the wind is still blowing too hard to have a good day at sea, we are committed. Or maybe we should be committed. Either way, even though we had four to six sharks visit us this day, we couldn't get them to the bait in the rough seas. Andre and the crew of Predator II valiantly tried to deliver, but at a certain point experience and perseverance must give way to the reality of futility. The reality was that we weren't going to get shark shots this day, and when a final menacing squall blew in, we blew out.

In retrospect our best shark opportunities came on our first two days and hopefully we were all prepared enough and skilled enough to have captured the magic. Two and a half gorgeous white shark days out of five scheduled shoot days is really a pretty good return for this part of the world at any time. I know I am eager to get home and see the film images as well, but take comfort in knowing that the digital images are good. I know for a fact I did not get skunked, and with white sharks sometimes that's good enough.

A white shark shooter will continue to invest more time and more energy and more money; all to have more days at sea with white sharks. In fact, in a few months I'll be off to Guadalupe Island off Mexico to try it again with the white sharks there. No doubt South Australia looms on the white shark horizon again one day. But for sure I'll be back to South Africa for more time with these boys. For white sharks are perhaps the most challenging marine wildlife subject an underwater photographer can face, and the most rewarding to capture in a new or different or better light.

Epilog

On the way home our airline schedule forced us to overnight in Capetown, so we chose to stay at the beautifully historic Cape Grace Hotel along the seaport. Here we could easily visit the Two Oceans Aquarium and have easy access to fine dining and shopping. All in all, a nice way to wrap a wonderful land-and-sea safari in Southern Africa.

Safari Planner

Clothing/Dress - Long pants, sweatshirts, and windbreakers are most suitable for safari in the Southern African winter. Remember stealth mode is preferred and it is best not to wear bright or gaudy attire while on game drives. Tan or khaki green are good colors for safari wear. It will be a good idea to omit heavy perfumes as well, and use unscented deodorant. Footwear of choice will include good tennis shoes or hiking boots and comfortable socks. Bring a waterproof garment for unexpected showers. Bring a swimsuit as well, since our camps will have swimming pools. You will not wish to swim anywhere other than chlorinated pools, both for health reasons (parasites) and obvious big game reasons (crocs and hippos).

Other advisable accessories include sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, binoculars, small flashlight with spare batteries, insect repellant, and lots of film and spare batteries and media for the digital cameras.** Photography on Safari** - This is the perfect place for long telephoto lenses. A 300mm is probably entry level for quality safari photography, and ideally a teleconverter or a longer lens in the 400mm to 600mm range will be utilized. Zoom lenses with good telephoto capacity are good choices as well. The 80-400 Nikkor or Canon 100-400mm equivalent should be excellent. For film, the longer lenses will typically require more speed. While I prefer Fuji 50 ISO Velvia for most of my underwater and topside photography, I'll probably limit the use of Velvia to bright daylight photography, or maybe push it one stop to 100 ISO. The new Velvia 100 ISO is an excellent choice as well. The extra stop (or shutter speed) at 100 ISO is an important consideration when handholding a long lens. I'll bring some 400 ISO film as well.

I intend to shoot transparency film and digital, but others may wish to consider print films as well. The 200 ISO print films are excellent general-purpose films, and they can be burned to the new Kodak Picture CD for use with Internet applications. In terms of quantity of film, I would think 12-15 rolls of film per shoot day, or digital equivalent, is a fair target. Figure 6.5 shoot days, so for safari I'll probably bring about 100 rolls of film.

Digital enthusiasts will need several batteries because we'll be out on safari and unable to recharge batteries until we get back to camp. Spare media cards or some means of digital download (other than your laptop) is definitely prudent!{mospagebreak}

Health - To personally research health information regarding travel to Botswana or South Africa, contact your personal physician or the Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) at 404-332-4565. Have your fax number ready, and then follow the prompts you receive on the recorded message to obtain faxed information. We have found it convenient to obtain current information regarding health concerns and recommended immunizations for Botswana by phoning the CDC at 888-232-3228 or via their Web site at www.cdc.gov.